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New Zealand - Waitomo, Hobbiton, Rotorua

  • Feb 28
  • 8 min read

Hello Family and Friends,


We took a 4 hour flight from Melbourne, Australia to Auckland, New Zealand. We will be undertaking a 3 week road trip visiting both the North and South island. After landing in Auckland, we rented a car and drove straight to the city of Hamilton. Already we are learning to roll with the punches on our road trip. Our plane was delayed leaving and so we arrived to Hamilton later than we planned. The lodge, where we had made a reservation, had given our room away. So now it's 9pm at night and we don't have a place to stay. But there was no panic, Brett always figures things out. We stayed at a hotel in the middle of town. Brett was able to get us a king suite with a bathtub. We were very comfortable.

The next morning we drove about an hour and a half away to visit Waitomo caves. We took about a 90 min tour of one of the smaller caves, Ruakuri.

Ruakuri cave is located right under the power cables.
Ruakuri cave is located right under the power cables.

Ruakuri is a Maori word that means "two dogs". The cave is named as such, because the cave was discovered due to two dogs running out of the cave. We were unable to enter the cave by the original entrance because that entrance was used as burial grounds for the Maori and there are still bones located at the top of the entrance.

The pathway to the original entrance.
The pathway to the original entrance.
The old pathway through the cave that is no longer used. Our guide is Maori and he told us that as a teeneager he would explore these caves with his friends using the old entrance.
The old pathway through the cave that is no longer used. Our guide is Maori and he told us that as a teeneager he would explore these caves with his friends using the old entrance.
The new entrance to the Ruakuri cave.
The new entrance to the Ruakuri cave.

Brett and Atlas walking ahead through some stalactite and column formations
Brett and Atlas walking ahead through some stalactite and column formations
Other cave formations that have developed over hundreds of years. They only grow about the size of  fingernail every hundred years.
Other cave formations that have developed over hundreds of years. They only grow about the size of fingernail every hundred years.

While on our cave tour we also ran into some tubers. They are tubing down the river that runs through the cave, often in pitch black darkness with only a headlamp to guide them. They start the tubing adventure with a backwards trust fall into pitch black river. We would have loved to do that, but we'll have to wait till Atlas is 14 years old.

Another highlight of the caves are the glowworms.

That's the ceiling of the cave with the light of the glow worms shining. They look like stars in the sky.
That's the ceiling of the cave with the light of the glow worms shining. They look like stars in the sky.

The life of a glow worm is interesting. They spend 9 months of their lives as larvae. As a larvae it glows to attract food into it's sticky stalactite structure.

A glowworms saliva mixed with urea. This is the sticky substance it uses to trap food and drain it of blood.
A glowworms saliva mixed with urea. This is the sticky substance it uses to trap food and drain it of blood.

When it becomes an adult fly, it only lives for about 7 days. It is unable to eat as it's mouth is undeveloped. It mates and lays eggs in that 7 days before it starves to death.

Besides the glowworms, we also learned that caving is one of the most popular sports in Waikomo because of all the caves.

These are just some caver mannequins on a rock fall formed by tectonic activity years ago. At this point we are about 200' underground.
These are just some caver mannequins on a rock fall formed by tectonic activity years ago. At this point we are about 200' underground.

We then headed to lunch in a nearby town.

Just some scenery along the road.
Just some scenery along the road.

We happened to catch a train going by in the station which Atlas loved. He was very upset when he realized we weren't going to be riding the train...at least not today.

Atlas pouting in front of the train at the Otorohanga station.
Atlas pouting in front of the train at the Otorohanga station.

The next day we left from Hamilton and headed to Hobbiton.

All of us standing in front of a hobbit hole.
All of us standing in front of a hobbit hole.

Hobbiton is located on a farm in Matamata, New Zealand. When the location scout was scouting out locations he was looking for a big tree with a pond and rolling hills and this farm checked those boxes.

The view from in front of Frodo Baggins' home looking across The Shire.
The view from in front of Frodo Baggins' home looking across The Shire.

It wasn't until the filming of the Hobbit that Hobbiton was created. After Lord of the Rings was filmed, no one anticipated the film's success so the entire set was torn down except a set of stairs leading to Frodo's house.

Brett in front of Frodo's home. The stairs to the left of photo are the only things original  from The Lord of the Rings set.  Everything else was re-built for the Hobbit movie.
Brett in front of Frodo's home. The stairs to the left of photo are the only things original from The Lord of the Rings set. Everything else was re-built for the Hobbit movie.

Once you visit the Hobbiton set you understand why Lord of the Rings and the Hobbit were so well done under Peter Jackson; he was a perfectionist down to the smallest detail. The tree in the background of the above picture is completely fake. It is made of concrete and silk leaves from China that they hand painted and tied on, twice, after the first set blew away. This is not the only artificial tree in the movie. Peter Jackson needed a plum tree, because that is what it said in the book, but they didn't have a plum tree. They stripped an apple tree of it's apples and leaves and tied on plum fruit and leaves. That kind of attention to detail is insane to me, but you have got to love the product.

Brett is a way bigger fan than me. When we were planning this trip, there were no tickets available to Hobbiton the entire time we were going to be in New Zealand. I actually dared to utter the phrase, "We don't have to see Hobbiton?" Brett was like if you go to New Zealand and don't see Hobbiton than I'm not sure you can say that you have been. Hobbiton was a non-negotiable part of the trip. It really is a very well done tour and the set is beautiful.

Atlas on a hobbit path.
Atlas on a hobbit path.

Our consolation prize for bringing a two and a half year old on a Hobbiton tour is that we had a hobbit sized person for photos.

Atlas, the perfect hobbit height.
Atlas, the perfect hobbit height.
One of the 44 hobbit holes on set.
One of the 44 hobbit holes on set.

In all honesty, the Hobbiton tour is actually very kid friendly. Whenever you are allowed into a hobbit hole they let you touch and sit on everything. I guess they know that true fans act like children.

Taking advantage of the you can touch everything policy.
Taking advantage of the you can touch everything policy.

My favorite part was going into Samwise Gamgee's home, which they had fully decorated. I could have spent a solid hour or more walking around and noticing all the details they added to make the home feel like it was currently being occupied. Including everything from running water in the kitchen and bath to flushing toilets (which they explicitly told us not to use)

Brett providing size perspective of Samwise Gamgee's home. This one was built to 82% human scale and it's still small.
Brett providing size perspective of Samwise Gamgee's home. This one was built to 82% human scale and it's still small.
Atlas sitting on Sam's children's bed.
Atlas sitting on Sam's children's bed.
 Atlas thought he was in a little house made just for him.
 Atlas thought he was in a little house made just for him.
I was a bad mom. I took the photo and then I told him the apples weren't real...on his third attempt.
I was a bad mom. I took the photo and then I told him the apples weren't real...on his third attempt.

Being at Hobbiton made me wish I was more of a fan. I really enjoyed the tour and learning about the behind the scenes work that made it all possible. I'm glad Brett didn't take me up on my suggestion to miss Hobbiton.

After our visit to Hobbiton in Matamata, New Zealand we drove to Rotorua. There are Māori people in this area that are keeping their traditions and heritage alive. We visited Te Puia which host geysers, hot springs, mud pools, a Kiwi sanctuary (the national bird of New Zealand and a nickname for New Zealanders) and a wood carving and weaving school.

Looking over Te Puia and observing some of the thermal effects.
Looking over Te Puia and observing some of the thermal effects.

Our guide was Māori and very pleased to share his heritage with us. He even started tearing up a little when explaining that the money we spend on tickets helps to support students at the school and keeping the Māori traditions alive.

Our tour guide, Micheal (Mikaera in Māori), translating the Māori name of the valley into English.
Our tour guide, Micheal (Mikaera in Māori), translating the Māori name of the valley into English.

Mikaera told us that the mud facial products that help reduce wrinkles comes from this valley.

The mud pools at Te Puia. The voice you hear is our tour guide, a true Kiwi.

We also got to see the Pohutu geyser both during the day time and at night. This is one of the more popular geysers because it goes off every 45 min on average.

The Pohutu geyser during the day
The Pohutu geyser during the day
At night they light up the Pohutu geyser and serve hot chocolate as it goes off.
At night they light up the Pohutu geyser and serve hot chocolate as it goes off.

One thing that Brett and I noticed right away with geysers in the states versus geysers in New Zealand is how close they let you get to the thermal activity. When we were in Yellowstone national park and watching Old Faithful, the closest we could get was about 200' away. Throughout Yellowstone there was no way to touch or interact with any of the thermal pools, not even the small ones. In New Zealand, they even have thermals that the locals children and teens will mud bathe and hangout in. While we were there we were getting sprayed by the geyser water while it was erupting. At first I thought it was raining because it was cool but, then realized it was the geyser, because when the wind would change directions I would get wet.

This is the main seating area located across from the Pohutu geyser. Our guide told us not to sit on the cracks because those get very hot.
This is the main seating area located across from the Pohutu geyser. Our guide told us not to sit on the cracks because those get very hot.
You can see steam coming out of the crack in the ground near the Pohutu geyser.

It's cool (or hot?) to get to be so close to something so powerful even if it is a little dangerous.

There was this one pool of water called "Bluey's pool". This is where the Māori bathe. They cover themselves in mud and then go wash off in the pool. Our tour guide told us that they have to fight their adolescent children to bathe. However, they can easily get their children to bathe if they take them to Bluey's pool. I thought it quite funny that I bribe Atlas with the TV show Bluey and the Māori bribe their kids to bathe with a pool named Bluey.

Bluey's Pool on the far side of the Pohutu geyser.
Bluey's Pool on the far side of the Pohutu geyser.

We also got a tour of the carving and weaving school. Mikaera told us that the carvings aren't just images but also language.

Everything about the Māori is saying something. Nothing they do is just because, it all serves a purpose. For example, what they carve as tombstones tells the whole life story of a person.

Examples of tombstone carvings. The photo of the man at the top of the carvings, the Māori people credit for brining Māori culture to foreigners.
Examples of tombstone carvings. The photo of the man at the top of the carvings, the Māori people credit for brining Māori culture to foreigners.
An example of a Māori cloak that takes 3 months to weave. It is made of various bird feathers.
An example of a Māori cloak that takes 3 months to weave. It is made of various bird feathers.
This cloak is made of kiwi feathers and takes 18 months of hand weaving 8 hours a day to complete.
This cloak is made of kiwi feathers and takes 18 months of hand weaving 8 hours a day to complete.

We ended our tour with a traditonal Māori welcome ceremony and dancing.

This is a traidtional Māori greeting to determine if an incoming group is friend or foe.

Once we were fully vetted as a friendly group we got to enter the lodge and see some traditional Māori dancing.

The balls that the women are rhythmically beating against their body are called "Poi".

Besides Atlas clapping on beat (makes me feel like a proud black mother), my next favorite dance was the Haka. It didn't last nearly long enough. But Haka is traditionally a warriors dance. It was used to intimidate an enemy. Now it is used at sporting events to intimidate the opponent and used as celebration.

Brett and I were a little concerned that the Māori experience would be exploitative. We were so pleased that the entire experience is Māori owned and run and all proceeds are used to benefit and share Māori culture.

A carving of the Māori demi-god Māui. Familiar to most westerners from the movie Moana.
A carving of the Māori demi-god Māui. Familiar to most westerners from the movie Moana.

Our first week in New Zealand has been full of new adventures. So far New Zealand is a homerun on the list of must see places.

 
 
 

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